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michael's online article storage   Monday, March 03, 2003   by Michael F. Parker for the Rapid River Monthly - see this month's issue for three new restaurant articles: Thibodaux Jones' Creole Kitchen, the new Uptown Cafe, and Spirits on the River Boycotting French Wine? -NONsense! -------------But I still prefer Iron Horse A couple of weeks ago the news networks, with ideas borrowed from the New York Post, were taking polls asking, “Should we boycott French wine?” This threw me back to 1996, when some wine shop customers refused my suggested bargain Bordeaux because France had resumed nuclear testing in the South Pacific. I could only counter, what has the winemaker got to do with all that? He’s a farmer, for Pete’s sake. Do you really think French wineries, with the restraints that are placed on their vineyard management, have time to pursue war policies when they are worrying about late frost and late rains? (That reasoning can apply elsewhere – why would you punish a brewer in Netanya by refusing to buy Maccabee?) I buy less French wine, but that is because of the prices and always needing guidance. It would not be because of current foreign policy any more than past nuclear testing, especially since the last war I can remember them winning was, well, against themselves. Further, I am consistently satisfied with the inexpensive quality from Spain and Italy. As columnist Daniel Henninger pointed out, Polish Americans have finally lived to see the end of their mockery and the laughter turn against France. But they really are asking for it: in advance of a state dinner planned to mark the historic visit by Iranian President Mohammad Khatami, Iran demanded that wine be banned from the table. Rather than force the issue, France forwent tradition and held a “reception” instead. Even the Tehran Times derided France for “lacking honesty and sincerity.” Well, the new jokes are French, but their wines are no joke. Nonetheless, an American winery is producing quality sparkling wines and pinot noir with much seriousness. The produce of Iron Horse Vineyards could end up being responsible for your forgetting about Champagne and Burgundy in exchange for more affordable quality from the very distinct growing region in western Sonoma County. Featured at state dinner tables through four Presidential administrations, their sparkling wines are cause for pride as they represent American wine making talent, while making it clear that if you like Iron Horse, you are already of Presidential temper. From Iron Horse: Classic Vintage Brut, Green Valley, Sonoma County 1997 ($30) This, made from 65% pinot noir, almost seemed to evaporate from the tongue – a true sign of finesse to me. Wedding Cuvee, Green County, Sonoma County 1998 ($30) This is made almost entirely from pinot noir, the grape I always expect to give a sparkling wine a lot of body. In this case, Iron Horse has pulled more of a delicacy from it instead. This also shows a little more of the yeast. Russian Cuvee, Green Valley, Sonoma County 1997 ($30) This is for the drinker who wishes sparkling wine was not so dry. A richer dosage (part of the sparkling wine-making process) almost gives a sweetness to this one. Made for the Summit meetings of Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev, it is reasonable to give Iron Horse some credit for ending the Cold War. Sauvignon Blanc, Cuvee R, Alexander Valley 2001 ($23) I actually tasted the previous vintage, but this winery’s sauvignons are reliable every year. Blended, interestingly, with viognier for perfume and fruit. Pinot Noir, Green Valley, Sonoma County 2000 ($33) The winery’s owner believes Iron Horse will eventually be known for excellence in Pinot Noir, the level of prestige given to the masters of Burgundy. Ironically, Iron Horse employs non-Burgundian methods. I spend little time with pinot because it is usually too expensive and often a crapshoot. If you are accustomed to buying $30 bottles, this is on target. Buy it. Blend 1, Alexander Valley, Proprietor Grown 2000 ($33) This is an elegant Bordeaux-style blend, and a good example why you can buy Alexander Valley cabernet-based wines with confidence. These red wines are from our friends in Spain: El Chaparrel, Navarra, Spain 2000 ($8) This is a very smooth red from about as far north as wines get grown in Spain, except for the Basque wines. The Grenache is grown on 60 – 100 year-old vines. Dehesa Gago, Toro, Spain 2001 ($8) This tempranillo wine shows why red wine from Toro is almost always a great buy. There is more oomph in aptly named Toro. Las Gravas, Jumilla, Spain ($20) This rich red is 70% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is hard to pick a favorite Spanish region, but Jumilla is mine for now. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- michael parker 4:17 AM