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michael's online article storage   Thursday, September 04, 2003   by michael parker for the Rapid River Monthly, pick up this month's issue for updates on Savoy and Thibodaux Jones, what's so lovely about Cafe Soleil, and who makes a damn good Mint Julep -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- GOOD SPILLS AND GOOD TIMES - and a few great pours “What’s that you’re wearing?” “Grenache,” she replied, “It’s from France.” It was the second of three times that day that Laura was struck with spilled wine. We were in Charleston, where every café and bar seemed to have those metal tables with the lattice metal top, meaning there is no sporting chance of dodging the approaching runaway liquid. Thank goodness for dark colors. It threw me back to when I met her, on a Saturday night during the Bele Chere festival in 1999 at the old New French Bar, which that night was serving in plastic cups for the crowds, and the Laura Blackley Band was performing outside. She spilled three tequilas in a row that night, but it was all on a solid surface. We were watching the sunset from the roof of the Vendue Inn when glass number two fell her way. It was an old vine Grenache recommended here before, called Old Fart ($9). The flavor is good and the price a bargain. And on that, there was next to us a man with a curious accent, which he self-described as Charlestonian, with a woman too young for him (or perhaps he was too old for her). She was dressed like a Chinese lantern, drinking the first chardonnay on the list. She said she was from Baltimore, but it was spoken without that conspicuous D. There is this near-fact that Baltimore locals say Ball-di-more. By now, there have been so many people who aren’t from there I have heard employ the D that I can imagine the locals have gone back to pronouncing the T. So I didn’t know whether she was really from there or not. That is, until she referred to me as “yous,” at which time glass number three fell and wet poor Laura. But again she was a good sport without a sporting chance. We realized that missing was Jessica, who doesn’t spill with such frequency, but when she spills, her wine has this tendency to sling great distances. Jessica spills like no other, and had she been there the wine would likely have by-passed Laura and hit the old fart’s girl, whose dress would have been unaffected. Try not to spill any of this Grenache: Viña Borgia, Garnacha, Campo de Borja, Spain 2001 ($6/bottle, $11/magnum) this is one of those reds you really want to serve at a party. It is affordable and yummy, and it is a step above the reds that you may be more prone to buy at the grocery store to save time. The 1.5 liter bottle is fun, and the fact that you will find this in the wine shop is an indication that you are getting better quality than whatever at the grocery store. Borsao, Campo de Borja, Spain 2002 ($7) 14% This is a Grenache blended with 25% Tempranillo, and an annual bargain. The 2001 vintage was very popular, and I have noticed some slight variation vintage to vintage, but why nitpick? The textbook raspberry red is there along with smooth drinking. Viña Alarba, Calatayud, Spain 2002 ($8) This is good, basic, textbook Grenache that is meant to be finished the night it is opened. The medium body, raspberry flavors, and pepper are all there. Drink it and practice saying Ca-la-ta-yud. Viña Alarba, Old Vines Grenache, Calatayud, Spain 2002 ($9) This wine is very distinct, and is for enthusiast wine drinkers who are prone to admire the nuances. Odd to drinkers to prefer reds they don’t have to think about, this wine exhibits complex spice that is hard to identify, and has the good stuff you get from vines that exceed fifty years of age. It is a true bargain. Protocolo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain 2001 ($7) An annual bargain, but not Grenache. This is all Tempranillo, and the good price is due in part to the “Vino de la Tierra” on the label, making it like what the French call “Vin de Pays.” Like Peñascal, the label produces a nice, simple white and a good pink, but you almost always find only the red. Also have these whites on hand: Santa Julia, Viognier, Mendoza, Argentina 2002 ($9) From the same producers of the highly recommended Torrontes. I knew that while not all producers make this floral white as well as others, Santa Julia is as reliable as a lot of people see the regular Chilean labels. In fact, I see Argentinean labels as generally more reliable. Hope, Verdelho, Hunter Valley, Australia 2002 ($8) Estate bottled. Verdelho has actually replaced Viognier as my favorite white. A grape native to Portugal but adopted by the Australians, it produces typically lively, lemony wine. People who abandoned chardonnay for Pinot Grigio would be pleased to go this way. 4:57 AM